The naughty-sounding dishes proved to be titilating in other ways too
A colourful brunch from Milchig in Paragon Aracade(Image: Sofie Jackson – staff)
There are a few places in Hull where I have always wanted to eat out, but they are just so popular it can be a little tough to get a table if you want to sit in. Or maybe I just give up too easily.
Milchig in Paragon Arcade is one such place. A success story in Hull City Centre, it survived even the bleak Covid times, which, as we all know, was an unprecedented nightmare for hospitality.
I was forever forgetting its unusual name, knowing it vaguely as ‘that busy place in Paragon Arcade’. After looking up ‘Milchig’, I learned it roughly means ‘made of milk’ in Old High German and, somehow, this made it stick in my head better.
While there are many milky – and buttery, creamy, and cheesey – choices on the menu, I also saw there are several vegan options for the milk-avoidant. In fact, I picked up the very last vegan pistachio and almond cookie, reasoning there must be a reason they sell so fast.
I noticed people would queue up to buy cookies as a takeaway, with no other food or drink. One man described it as his weekly “cookie fix”, giving me the solid impression these giant biscuits have built up an almost legendary reputation.
After examining the brunch menu, I then ordered a ‘Hot Honey Halloumi Toast’ for myself and a ‘Slutty Reuben Bagel’ for my friend. “You are what you eat”, she quipped.
Now, while there is seating indoors, it is very much in-demand, so don’t be surprised if all tables are long gone by 11am on a weekend. This was the situation when I visited, but there was still a spot outside in the arcade.
The metal seats were a little chilly in February, so I appreciated the provided blankets which fully cushioned my bum from the cold. I was incredibly comfortable, so long as I kept my coat on.
It was so busy I was expecting a wait for the food, so was surprised when it arrived within 10 minutes. The presentation was absolutely stunning; if I wasn’t peckish before, I definitely was now.
The first thing I noticed with my ‘Hot Honey Halloumi Toast’ was the quality of the bread. It was bakery-style, very fresh with a nice and chewy bite. The halloumi had been beautifully grilled.
I also liked the pretty little bits added on – jewel-like pomegranate seeds, pink pickled onion, bits of rocket. The hot honey sauce was rather syrupy and I couldn’t taste honey, but the sugary sweetness definitely added complexity to the dish.
Across the table from me, my friend seemed to be in some seventh heaven with the ‘Slutty Reuben Bagel’. She described the bread as “fluffy, firm” and “evidently fresh”, adding the pastrami was definitely delicatessen quality and “melt in the mouth”.
The flavours were said to be perfectly balanced, and a “little zesty” and also creamy. Like my meal, it was very pretty and decorated with a confetti of crispy onions.
Finally, it was onto the cookie. This was simply astounding, one of the nicest baked goods I’ve ever had in Hull. Despite being vegan, it had a buttery texture, full-on chocolate flavour, and the nuts on top were beautifully toasted.
However, even on my saddest please-feed-me days, I don’t think I could have eaten a whole cookie by myself. Not only are they big and deep, but they are extremely rich.
I wrapped the rest up in a naptkin and took it home. My partner, who had the other half, agreed the cookie was gorgeous, but so indulgent and thick and doughy that about half of one felt like the right size.
Milchig is somewhere I would take a date I really like, a close friend in need of a special treat, or someone who is normally impossible to please.
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